This handsome town, 15 miles north of Leeds, is one of the country’s original spa resorts, a sort of Bath of the North. Mineral waters were discovered in Harrogate in the late 16th century by William Slingsby, who drank from a spring near the village and realised something tasted different. The Tewit Well stands proud today on the Stray – 200 acres of elegant parkland near the town centre.
Soon after, more wells sprung up, fed by sulphurous waters in “Low Harrogate” that drew visitors who came to drink and bathe in the “fetid” but medicinal waters. A Roman-style temple was built over the Old Sulphur Well in 1808 and Regency-style baths were constructed alongside hotels and entertainment venues from the Georgian through to Victorian eras.
Today, Harrogate retains its grand landscaping – all Georgian-style sweeping curves, sandstone and manicured parkland. Its spa remains a big draw for visitors, while the rolling Dales and Nidderdale are within easy reach for spring walks.
Getting there and around
Harrogate station is served by LNER (you can get a taste of the town on the way with a cup of Taylors of Harrogate coffee or Yorkshire Tea, or Harrogate spring water) from London King’s Cross and Leeds, as well as Northern trains from Leeds and York.
The station is in the town centre – you emerge straight into the grandeur of Victoria Gardens Shopping Centre. Inspired by Palladio’s Basilica in Vicenza, it was actually built in 1992 on the site of Harrogate’s 19th-century covered public market, giving a sense of why this town is often labelled as “posh.” The curved, balustrade-supported sandstone shop fronts are topped with statues of customers and salespeople.
Buses depart from the nearby station, with services to nearby Ripon, Knaresborough and Pateley Bridge at the edge of the Yorkshire Dales. Fares £2.
Drop your bags
The DoubleTree by Hilton Harrogate Majestic is the only spa hotel in town. It overlooks the centre from a landscaped, hillside perch that speaks to its 135-year history. It has hosted politicians, royalty and celebrities though these days it is mostly spa-going couples. The modern spa has a pool, thermal rooms and treatments. Accessible rooms available, doubles from £103.
For leafier surrounds, aim for West Park Hotel, which overlooks the Stray. There is an accessible room and doubles – all bright colours and patterned fabrics – start at £100 B&B.
Browse the shops
The Montpellier Quarter is a beautiful bundle of Georgian-style architecture and intriguing independent shops. Dive down Montpellier Street to find a warren of antiques and vintage shops in the Mews Antique Market, or swing around to Montpellier Parade for stylish menswear at Owl or coffee, spa treatments and gifts at Heal as well as art and homeware on Royal Parade at Watermark Gallery.
Commercial Street is a bunting-swathed parade of independent shops and The Cheeseboard, one of Yorkshire’s finest cheese shops.
Cosy cafés
Bettys Tea Room is legendary, but worth queuing for. The first café was opened by the Swiss Fritz Bützer on Cambridge Crescent in 1919. Today, Bettys stands across the road, pulling in tens of thousands of customers every year as part of the mighty Taylors of Harrogate family that also produces Yorkshire Tea and Taylors coffee.
The shop sells a tempting array of cakes, biscuits and sweet treats (try the Yorkshire Tea loaf) while next door the tea room swirls with friendly staff serving fat rascals (heavy-duty fruit scones), cakes, dainty tea services and an all-day menu. Book in for a special occasion afternoon tea in the Imperial Room upstairs, from £29.95pp.
For something more modern, &Harrogate (or Ampersand Harrogate) on Montpellier Parade serves brunch until 3pm at weekends.
Rainy day refuges
Harrogate’s Turkish Baths are exceptional. The historic bathhouse – opened in 1897 – has had its period features beautifully restored. The Islamic-style design incorporates arches, glazed tiles, arabesque stencils and mosaic flooring. The highlight is the thermal experience – several hours spent moving between the heated rooms and a dunk in the cold water pool. Sessions £25pp.
Learn more about the town’s spring waters at the ornate Royal Pump Room Museum (Tues-Sun, £3.80), while The Royal Hall is Harrogate’s Edwardian “glittering palace of gold”, once known as the Kursaal (Cure Hall) where open days take place throughout the year (£3).
A quick drink
This is a town for craft beer drinkers, as well as tea lovers. Britain’s best independent beer – Nidd Mild – is brewed by Harrogate Brewing Co which has a taproom. More central is Cold Bath Brewing, whose King’s Road taproom has a buzzy terrace. Harrogate’s “favourite traditional English pub” is the Fat Badger, an upscale drinking hole with big garden.
Dinner time
Stuzzi takes its name from the Italian “stuzzichini” – Italian appetisers. However, dishes are generous, and very moreish – ragu-filled arancini or bucatini with clams, ’nduja and langoustine bisque, for example.
Opposite the Stray, Three’s a Crowd is a welcoming gastropub usually packed with locals who come for beef and bone marrow burgers or roast beets with Yellison’s goat curd and toasted walnuts.
Spring walks
Go for a stroll in the beautiful, Grade II listed Valley Gardens. The meandering park encompasses the 17-acre Pinewoods, the Bogs Field where 36 mineral wells were discovered, restored pavilions, seasonal flowerbeds and a pump room.
If you’ve time, walk its length and on to RHS Harlow Carr, with its flower meadows, woodland, lakeside gardens, arboretum and gurgling stream that runs through its centre. There’s also a Bettys café on site, and the historic Harrogate Arms – a former spa hotel –will reopen as a café this summer (£15.85).